Wednesday, July 27, 2016

2015 Cuvée Bellenos Rosé $10/40

Where: Coteaux Bourguignons, Burgundy, France
Who: Maison Roche de Bellene (same as the red)
What: 100% Gamay
Tastes like: Light, mineral driven rosé with subtle fruit (strawberries)  on the nose and a surprisingly elegant and subdued profile.
What to pair with: Fresh cheeses, the pea green salad, burrata. Great “thinking wine” for when you first seat down



From their adorably plain website:

Domaine de Bellene has been created in 2005 by Nicolas Potel after the purchase of various old vines in some of the best plots of Burgundy.

Nowadays, our vineyards are situated in Santenay, Saint Romain, Volnay, Beaune, Nuits Saint Georges and Vosne Romanée. They are all vines from 50 to 110 years old.
All our vines are grown with the biodynamic methods. We add no outside products to our wines, no acid, no cultured yeast, nutrients, enzymes, sugar...
The domaine de Bellene is situated in the city center of Beaune in Burgundy. We are established in some very old buildings dating back to 1600. All the buildings have been renovated with a green spirit following the "HQE" method.

Fruit comes from Coteaux Bourguignons (“Hills of Burgundy”), a new appellation created to showcase the classic taste of the entire Burgundy region, from south (Beaujolais) to north (Côte d’Or).

Fruit undergoes whole-cluster fermentation and maturation in stainless steel tanks. (833 cs)

2015 Vintage
The 2015 growing season was harvested in early September due to a very hot summer. A lack of rain concentrated the fruit flavors but did not produce large yields. The resulting fruit produced very balanced wine with low acid potential.


2015 Domaine Lafage “Centenaire”

2015 Domaine Lafage “Centenaire” $11/44

Where: Côtes du Roussillon, France
Who: Jean-Marc and Eliane Lafage
What: 80% Grenache Blanc, 20% Roussanne
Tastes like: Medium plus bodied white with a little bit of oak (30% of the wine spends 4 months in new French Oak, to be exact). Round profile with bright acidity. Should please those folks looking for an oakier white, while still remaining very balanced and food-friendly.
What to pair with: Fish and lighter meat dishes. Anything with butter. Cheese plates!

Jean-Marc Lafage works at his estate in the Roussillon, and across the border in Spain where he consults on several projects.
Jean-Marc and Eliane Lafage farm 160 hectares of vines located just south of the capital of French Catalonia, Perpignan. Some of their vineyards are situated a few kilometers from the Mediterranean while others can be found in the foothills of the Pyrenees. This range of sites allow them to make both refreshing whites as well as concentrated reds and, this being the Roussillon, some fortified wines as well. Benefiting from a warm, dry climate, the estate is farmed organically. They grow primarily Grenache (Blanc, Gris & Noir), Syrah, Mourvedre, Carignan, Marsanne, Roussanne and Chardonnay with a significant proportion of the vines well over 50 years old. The soil, as you near the coast is weathered, alluvial gravel while in the higher elevation sites it is predominantly schist. They harvest by hand and the winemaking is surprisingly uncomplicated with stainlesss steel for the fresher whites but mostly concrete tanks for the rest with a small amount of French oak demi-muids.



“Run by the talented (and fast driving) Jean-Marc and Eliane Lafage, from their cellar located just outside of Perpignan (which is being completely renovated), this estate includes vineyards spread throughout the Roussillon, allowing them to make the most of the diverse terroirs and micro-climates. I struggle to think of another portfolio that encompasses anywhere close to this level of value, and the average quality to price (QPR) for these wines is just hard to believe.”

– JEB DUNNUCK



2013 Rainoldi Rosso di Valtellina

2013 Rainoldi Rosso di Valtellina $12/48


Where: Valtellina, Lombardy
Who: Aldo and Peppino Rainoldi
What: 100% Nebbiolo (called Chiavennasca in this part of Italy but same exact grape)
Tastes like: very perfumed nose, classic red fruit (red cherries, ripe cranberries) and dried flowers, with a powerful backbone of minerality and dried herbs. Rich mouth feel, bigger than the Nino Negri Nebbiolo, with some ripe fruit. Still a relatively light wine (I would say medium body.)
Alcohol: Med (12.5%), Tannin: Med+, Acidity: Med +, Sugar: low
What to pair with: Charcuterie for sure, also lighter red meat dishes, pork, chicken, mushrooms.



“Peppino Rainoldi and his nephew Aldo make wines with strong personalities…bringing out the best of the various terroirs where Nebbiolo rules supreme.” – Gambero Rosso Italian Wines 2010
“This producer based in Lombardy’s Valtellina makes a number of delicious, value-priced reds.” – Antonio Galloni

Founded in 1925 by the current proprietor’s grandfather and great-grandfather, respectively, Casa Vinicola Aldo Rainoldi is THE flagship estate in the Valtellina, the heart of Lombardy’s heralded Nebbiolo-growing region. The northernmost wine region in Lombardy, vineyards in the Valtellina are located at extremely high altitudes (600+ meters) and are protected from cold, harsh winds by the nearby mountain peaks, which also trap the heat in the valley. The stony schist-based vineyard soils also retain heat and release it during the night to warm the vines. These conditions provide a long, slow growing season for Nebbiolo, known locally as Chiavennasca, allowing it to fully develop its flavors over a long, slow growing season. Vines here are cultivated exclusively by hand on the impervious (but optimally exposed!) steep slopes along the north bank of the valley.

New Cheeses 7/26/2016

Roquefort $7
Sheep, Raw, 3 months, Sharp & Citrusy, Calabria, IT
Raw sheep’s milk cheese from the midi-pyrenees in france. The original AOC cheese in France, received its designation in 1921, it is also one of the older continuously produced cheeses in europe with suggestion that it was produced as far back as 79 AD. Made from raw sheep’s milk cheese by only 7 producers. Injected with penicillin and aged for 3 months, Roquefort is rich and creamy, but aslo sharp tangy a peppery.

Ouleout $7 
Cow, Raw, 3 months, Washed, Full Bodied, Walton, NY 
Raw, Cow’s Milk Cheese from Vulto Creamery in Walton NY, aged 3 months. The creamery was started by Jos Vulto, a dutch artist who began cheese making as a hobby and aged his cheeses under a brooklyn sidewalk. Now located near the catskills vulto uses only raw milk from 2 local farms and much of the production is done by hand uses classic methods. Ouleout is a classic washed rind style cheese similar to reblochon, or epoise. Rich and funky with strong savory/meaty/mushroom notes, the cheese has an orange rind and a fudgy paste.

Mrs. Quickes Cheddar $8
Cow, Raw, 18 months, Big & Sharp, Devon, England
Raw Cow’s milk cheese from The Quicke Creamery in Devon England. A farmstead creamery the quick creamery has been operating for over 450 years. To make Mrs. Quickes cheddar, the curds are pressed into a giant molds, then wrapped in cheesecloth, and then coated in lard to seal in the moisture. The cheese is then cave aged for 18 months developing sharp lactic notes classically found in cheddar, some earthy funk, and a hint of horseradish.

Friday, July 15, 2016

2015 Telmo Rodriguez “Basa”

2015 Telmo Rodriguez “Basa” $11

Where: Rueda D.O., Spain
Who: Compañia de Vinos Telmo Rodriguez
What: 90% Verdejo and 10% Viura
Tastes like: Round, floral, easy drinking wine
What to pair with: Chicken, seafood, either of the vegetable sides right now

In 1994, Pablo Eguzkiza and Telmo Rodríguez, along with a third oenologist, created a Garnacha from old bush vineyards in Navarra. The wine was called Alma (soul). This is how the business started, originally under the name of Compañía de Vinos de La Granja.
The name was a declaration of intent: it made it clear that the company would be producing more wines in the future and contained a homage to La Granja, the famous glassworks, a centre of outstanding Spanish craftwork that has all but disappeared.

Rueda is the second area Telmo and Pablo went to explore, and it was here that the Basa project was born. Back then, they exported all of their wines. But with the creation of other wines such as Aran, Molino Real and Lanzaga, the need for a single umbrella brand arose. The company at this stage belonged entirely to Pablo Eguzkiza and Telmo Rodriguez, who decided to call it “Compañía de Vinos Telmo Rodriguez”, (the Telmo Rodriguez Wine Company) to take advantage of Telmo’s position in the wine world, as well as his pioneering work with Spanish viticulture.

From the start, the aim of the company has been to use native Spanish varieties. This philosophy originally differed from the on-going interest in the planting of foreign varieties, pretty much in every Spanish vineyard region. Another noteworthy initiative, again from the earliest days of the business, is the recovery of abandoned or forgotten vineyards. This is how the projects in Malaga, with Molino Real, and in Cebreros , with Pegaso, emerged.

2014 Daniel Seguinot Chablis

2014 Daniel Seguinot Chablis $13

Where: Maligny, Chablis AOC
Who: Daniel Seguinot et filles (=and daughters)
What: Chardonnay (Chablis=Chardonnay always and forever)
Tastes like: Very bright, high acid, crisp, mineral driven white.
What to pair with: light green things, seafood of any kind. The classic pairing is oysters for your frame of reference.

Our Domaine is located in Maligny, 8 km north of Chablis, on the North-South main road of the Serein valley.

Maligny is one of the 19 villages that benefit from the world-renowned Chablis wine appellation.
Thanks to a privileged South-West sun exposure, our village, leaning against the right bank of the Serein river, provides rich and well balanced wines.

Among 5 000 ha of planted vineyards, 300 ha sit on the district of Maligny.
Our village is lucky enough to gather four levels of appellation: Petit Chablis, Chablis, Chablis Premier Cru Fourchaume and Chablis Premier Cru Homme Mort.

As far back as we can go in the family tree, the Seguinots have always been working on vineyards.
Daniel settled in 1971 on about 2 ha of Chablis vineyards with his father and grandfather’s help. Later on, in 1975, he extended the Domaine on 3 ha of Fourchaume and Homme Mort vineyards.

The Domaine has been constantly evolving since the last 40 years and now covers 20 ha.

The nicest achievement and the best reward for Daniel was when his two daughters were born. Emilie proudly took over from him in 2003 and Laurence in 2008 in order to perpetuate the family tradition.


The father/daughter close relationship allows enhancing quality and authenticity of our wines.

Each year, our wines are awarded in different competitions and tasting guides comforting us in our choices for winemakers.

2015 Mas de Libian Vin de Petanque

2015 Mas de Libian Vin de Petanque $12

Where:  Ardèche, South Rhône Valley
Who: Thibon family (read their history, dating back to 1670 at http://www.masdelibian.com/)
What: 75% Grenache noir / 25 %: Syrah, Mourvedre, Counoise, and Vaccarèse
Tastes like: Refreshing summer red. Juicy without sweetness, light without being thin. Red and black fruit, delicious.
What to pair with: Charcuterie, pasta with tomatoes, light game

From the winemakers:

“Vin de Pétanque” (“Pétanque Wine”) : Sip while playing a lazy summer game of pétanque in the south of France, among other occasions!!!! It can also be served chilled for a lovely summer evening party! An easy-drinking wine, without pretense or snobbery: made for sharing with friends, bottle after bottle…
Varieties : Mostly Grenache (75%), with the remaining 25% a blend of Syrah, Mourvedre, Counoise, and Vaccarèse. Only from young vines under 25 years old.
Terroir : Clay-limestone soil with a mix of flat limestone rocks and round river stones on the surface and first layers of soil. Mediterranean climate with hot, dry summers, limited rainfall and a lot of wind.
Viticulture : Certified Organic and Biodynamic agriculture. Yield: 40 hl/ ha. Harvest is entirely by hand with a very careful selection in the vineyards.
Vinification : Traditional winemaking techniques, assemblage of varieties in tank. 100% de-stemmed. Light crushing. Temperature-regulated fermentations. Short time macerating in tank (about 5 days). Running-off by gravity. Pneumatically pressed. Malolactic fermentation in tank.
Tasting : To drink any time, any way, without hang-ups but always with joy! A fresh red wine to drink slightly chilled.
Pairing : For summer parties
Serving temperature : 14°C (57°F)

Tomato Jam

Tomato Jam
This is our basic tomato sauce (san marzano tomatoes put through a food mill) reduced by about half. Then whole san marzano tomatoes are smoked and added to the reduced tomato sauce. Theres some sliced garlic, harissa, mustard powder, ground cumin, sugar, s&p and pectin to thicken. Once the Jam is at the correct consistency and cooling, lime juice is added. Garnished with fennel pollen in the pass. Allergies: garlic,apple (pectin)

Thursday, July 14, 2016

New Menu Items 7/14/2016

Salami Cotto
A classic piedmontese sausage. Pork, pork fat, and beef are mixed with salt, pepper, fennel seeds, garlic, and coriander. The meat is ground, then paddled along with brined green peppercorns, lambrusco, and carpano antico vermouth. The mixture is stuffed into a collagen casing, hung overnight, and then cooked in the combi. Sliced thin with no garnish. Allegies: Garlic 

Nancy's Camembert
Camembert style cheese from old chatham sheepherding company in old chatham new york, an organic farmstead creamery. Pasteurized cow and sheeps milk, bloomy rind, rich buttery and strong mushroom notes. The blend of milks is not common in camemberts but adds some complexity that is often lost during pasteurization. 

Pecorino Crotonese
Raw sheeps milk cheese from Crotone in calabria. A classic italian style cheese, the curds are pressed and then aged in baskets for 3 months giving it a distinctive rind. Only made from November to June to ensure quality and consistency of the milk, the cheese is strong and sharp, citrusy and a little nutty.  

Polpette
Pork and beef meatballs with garlic, parsley, pecorino, parmesan, and a panada of egg, breadcrumb, and half and half. 3 to an order served in a crushed tomato sauce (tomatoes, garlic, olive oil, basil, and bone marrow), garnished with fresh basil, parmesan, and lardo. 
Allegies: Garlic, Dairy, Egg, Gluten

Rigatoni
Housemade rigatoni (00, semolina, and durum flours, along with water). Tossed in smoked corn cream, which is made from corn, and onions cooked in a smoked corn stock (smoked corn cobbs, parmesan, bay leaf, water) that is then pureed. Tossed in with the pasta, are hungarian wax peppers, spanish chorizo, roasted corn (corn, bay leaf, thyme), lemon zest, and red veined sorrel. Finished with ricotta salata cheese Allegies: Gluten, Onion

Nodini Fritti 
Pizza dough, portioned into 1 oz knots, is fried and tossed in a garlic beurre monte (butter, water, and roasted garlic). Then tossed with parmesan, pecorino, and chili flake, finished with fresh black pepper. 4 to an order. Allegies: Gluten, Dairy

Fiore Di Zucca
Olive oil base, summer squash caponata (squash, zucchini, fennel, celery, shallots, garlic, golden raisins, and sherry vinegar), roasted oyster mushrooms, pecorino crema (sheeps milk ricotta, and grated pecorino), mozzarella, and basil are cooked in the oven. Finished with oregano, salt, oil, and parmesan Allegies: Gluten, Garlic, Dairy

Calabrese
Olive oil base, marinated broccoli rabe (broccoli rabe, garlic, chili flake, olive oil, and red wine vinegar), fried eggplant, mozzarella, scamorza are cooked in the oven. Finished with ricotta salata and calabrian chili relish (calabrian chilis, mirepoix, lemon juice and zest). Allegies: Gluten, Garlic, Dairy