Friday, April 28, 2017

Coming Soon: White Rascal, Waldo, Epiphany, Leitmotif Opus 3

AVERY WHITE RASCAL
Style: Belgian White Ale
Abv: 5.6%
Size, Price: 16oz, $7.5

An American beer in a classic Belgian style, the White Rascal is brewed with coriander and curacao orange peel to create a refreshing, light, fluffy white ale.  

LAGUNITAS WALDO
Style: Imperial IPA, Special Release
Abv.: 11.5%
Size, Price: 12oz, $8

From the brewer: “In 1971, the Waldos met one afternoon at 4:20 in the front courtyard of their school near the statue of Louis Pasteur.  They set out in a ‘66 Impala armed with a “treasure map” on a journey to find a secret garden near Point Reyes.  They met there at the same time every day and continued their quest.  They never found the secret garden...But they keep lookin’.  The dankest and hoppiest beer ever brewed at Lagunitas was made with the help of the Waldos for all treasure hunters.”  They recommend pairing with beer-battered Twinkies Con Queso.  Woof.

FOUNDATION EPIPHANY
Style: Maine IPA
Abv.: 8%
Size, Price: 12oz, $8

Epiphany was designed to showcase the glorious flavor and aromatics of hops without any astringent bitterness.  Citrus, tropical fruit and pine blend to provide you with a sublimely juicy hop experience.  “East or west coast? No. This is a Maine IPA”

EXHIBIT “A”  LEITMOTIF OPUS 3 KETTLE SOUR
Style: American Wild Ale
Abv.: 4.2%
Size, Price: 16oz, $7.5

This beer is part of a limited release series by Exhibit “A.”  All of the Leitmotif’s are kettle soured with wild yeast, but the Opus 3 features the addition of Cara Cara oranges and Mandarina Bavaria hops.  Tasting notes don’t really exist out there, but with wild ferments you usually get a much softer, funkier sour than the big super-tart citrus-driven styles that are out there.  General consensus is that this one is more orange peel driven than funky and not particularly tart.

Sun's Out, Guns Out: Summer Beers! Gansett Del's Shandy, Lawson's Sip of Sunshine, Anderson Valley Briney Melon Gose, Bantam Americain

NARRAGANSETT DEL’S SHANDY
Style: Lemonade and Lager Shandy
Abv: 4.7%
Size, Price: 16oz, $5.00

Del’s Shandy is a collaboration between two iconic Rhode Island brands (Here’s a shout out to you, Mr. McDevitt!).  According to our friends on the south show-wah keds, it “is the perfect thirst-quenching balance of our gold medal Lager with Del’s lemon concentrate...brewed under the supervision of award-winning brewmaster Sean Larkin.”  Gansett is the highest rated domestic lager on Beer Advocate (I’m not 100% certain if that is mostly because they are NE natives as well), while Del’s Lemonade has been Rhode Island’s favorite summer treat for over six decades.  Citrusy, malty, beach beer.  Crushable.

LAWSON’S SIP OF SUNSHINE
Style: IPA
Abv: 8%
Size, Price: 12oz, $8.50

Lawson’s Finest Liquids is a microbrewer based out of Vermont.  They are tiny and, as such, very rare.  We are able to carry some of their IPA’s due to a new partnership in which they borrow some brewing space from our friends at Two Roads.  Even with that partnership established, finding any of their beers outside of VT or the Hartford area is a treat.  The Sip of Sunshine is packed with juicy tropical fruit character, bright floral aromas, and delectable layers of hop flavor.  The people at Lawson’s encourage you to “pour mindfully, inhale deeply, and enjoy a tropical vacation in a glass.”  

ANDERSON VALLEY BRINEY MELON GOSE
Style: Watermelon Gose
Abv: 4.2%
Size, Price: 16oz, $7.25

Born from their passion for experimentation, the Briney Melon Gose boasts a thirst-quenching tartness that is perfectly balanced by subtle watermelon flavors and aromas.  Gentle additions of sea salt create a refreshing harmony between the acidity and fruity sweetness leading to a clean, dry finish.


BANTAM AMERICAIN
Style:
Abv.: 5.2%
Size, Price: 16oz, $7.50

From the brewer: “Contrary to popular beliefe, The Americain was born in the spring, not the fall.  It was first made to remind us of the rich and amazing flavors we experienced in our friend’s homemade batch of apple butter.  Green cardamom, coriander, clove, cinnamon, and rose petals create a rich and aromatic character that is luscious and deliciously edible.  And why the French name? Well, anything said in French sounds sexier, don’t you agree?  And while this cider takes its name from the French, it’s cloudy like English Scrumpy and features traditional Persian spices, its taste is truly American: as American as apple pie.”

Calamari Deconstruction (James Cosby)

The Squid Part

The English name calamari has been borrowed multiple times, first from Spanish calamar, later from Italian calamaro, and most recently from Modern Greek καλαμάρι kalamári. All derive from the Late Latin calamarium, "pen case" or "ink pot", itself from the Latin calamarius, "pertaining to a writing-reed", after the resemblance in shape and the inky fluid that squid secrete; calamarius in turn derives from the Greek κάλαμος kalamos 'reed' or ‘pen'

In English-speaking countries, squid as food is often marketed using the Italian word calamari. Squid are found abundantly in certain areas, and provide large catches for fisheries. The body can be stuffed whole, cut into flat pieces, or sliced into rings. The arms, tentacles, and ink are also edible; in fact, the only parts not eaten are the beak and gladius (pen). Squid is a good food source for zinc and manganese, and high in copper,[17] selenium, vitamin B12, and riboflavin.[18

 Squid are cephalopods of the order Teuthida, which comprises around 304 species.[2] Like all other cephalopods, squid have a distinct head, bilateral symmetry, a mantle, and arms. Squid, like cuttlefish, have eight arms arranged in pairs and two, usually longer, tentacles. Squid are strong swimmers and certain species can "fly" for short distances out of the water.
Allergies to calamari can occur.[15] As with other molluscs, the allergen is probably tropomyosin.

Many species are popular as food in cuisines as diverse as American, Basque, Canadian, Chinese, English, Filipino, Greek, Italian, Japanese

Now internationally recognized for top-shelf squid, Point Judith, Rhode Island was established as a popular “hub” in the early 80s. Along with its unique harbor-side vacation sites and activities, Point Judith can coin itself as the first port on the East Coast to have an influx of fresh squid supply. With sustained efforts, and dedicated fisherman, Point Judith has been named “The squid capital of the East Coast.”

Beurre Blanc

Literally translated from French as "white butter" — is a hot emulsified butter sauce made with a reduction of vinegar and/or white wine (normally Muscadet) and grey shallots into which cold, whole butter is blended off the heat to prevent separation. The small amounts of lecithin and other emulsifiers naturally found in butter are used to form an oil-in-water emulsion. Although similar to hollandaise in concept, it is considered neither a classic leading nor compound sauce.[1] This sauce originates in Loire Valley cuisine.

A good beurre blanc is rich and buttery, with a neutral flavor that responds well to other seasonings and flavorings, thereby lending itself to the addition of herbs and spices. It should be light and airy yet still liquid and thick enough to cling to food.
Beurre blanc is prepared by reducing wine, shallots, and herbs (if used) until it is nearly dry. Although not necessary, cream can be added at this point as a stabilizer to the sauce. Lemon juice is sometimes used in place of vinegar, and stock can be added as well.[4] Cold, one-inch cubes of butter are then gradually incorporated into the sauce as the butter melts and the mixture is whisked.
The sauce can separate by either overheating or cooling. If it heats past 58 °C (136 °F), some of the emulsifying proteins begin to break down and release the butterfat they hold in emulsion. If the sauce cools below 27 °C (80 °F), the butterfat will solidify

Tempura 

The classic "batter-fried" food in Japan is tempura, which is no stranger to the West. What is not well known about this so-called typical Japanese dish is that in actual fact it was introduced, or at least devised, centuries ago by Europeans living in Japan - the Spanish and Portuguese who established missions in southern Japan in the late sixteenth century. The dish caught on with the Japanese, who added the thin, delicately seasoned dipping sauce with grated daikon mixed in. By now tempura has passed so thoroughly into native cooking that its origin is almost forgotten.

Rice flour may be made from either white rice or brown rice. To make the flour, the husk of rice or paddy is removed and raw rice is obtained, which is then ground to flour.


The Peppers

Peppadew is the trademarked brand name of sweet piquanté peppers (a cultivar of Capsicum baccatum) grown in the Limpopo province of South Africa.This type of piquante pepper was first discovered in early 1993[1] and introduced to market later that same decade. The name is a portmanteau of 'pepper' and 'dew'. Although the pepper is sometimes described as a cross between a pepper and a tomato, this description is not botanically accurate, and refers only to the resemblance in color and size between peppadew and cherry tomatoes.


The Capers

The salted and pickled caper bud (called simply a caper) is often used as a seasoning or garnish. Capers are a common ingredient in Mediterranean cuisine, especially Cypriot, Italian, Aeolian and Maltese. The mature fruit of the caper shrub are prepared similarly and marketed as caper berries.
The buds, when ready to pick, are a dark olive green and about the size of a fresh kernel of corn (Zea mays). They are picked, then pickled in salt, or a salt and vinegar solution, and drained. Intense flavor is developed as mustard oil (glucocapparin) is released from each caper bud. This enzymatic reaction leads to the formation of rutin, often seen as crystallized white spots on the surfaces of individual caper buds.
Capers are a distinctive ingredient in Italian cuisine, especially in Sicilian, Aeolian and southern Italian cooking. They are commonly used in salads, pasta salads, meat dishes, and pasta sauces. Examples of uses in Italian cuisine are chicken piccata and spaghetti alla puttanesca.
Capers are known for being one of the ingredients of tartar sauce. They are often served with cold smoked salmon or cured salmon dishes (especially lox and cream cheese). Capers and caper berries are sometimes substituted for olives to garnish a martini.
Capers are categorized and sold by their size, defined as follows, with the smallest sizes being the most desirable: non-pareil (up to 7 mm), surfines (7–8 mm), capucines (8–9 mm), capotes (9–11 mm), fines (11–13 mm), and grusas (14+ mm). If the caper bud is not picked, it flowers and produces a caper berry. The fruit can be pickled and then served as a Greek mezze.
Caper leaves, which are hard to find outside of Greece or Cyprus, are used particularly in salads and fish dishes. They are pickled or boiled and preserved in jars with brine—like caper buds.

Dried caper leaves are also used as a substitute for rennet in the manufacturing of high-quality cheese.[24]

Fettuccini Nero Deconstruction

Fettuccini Nero

~Fettuccini~
  • “Little ribbons” in Italian
  • One of the oldest and most common pastas
  • Made with egg dough, which gives the pasta a softer texture

Cocoa Powder
  • Cocoa powder starts as pulpy seeds contained in pod-shaped fruits growing on cocoa trees.
  • The seeds are fermented (gives the beans their brown color and flavor), dried, roasted, and then ground into a paste.
  • The fat (cocoa butter) is removed from the paste and dry, unsweetened cocoa powder is the result. (If you remix cocoa butter with some portion of the cocoa powder you can make chocolate!! YUM)


-Benefits of Cocoa Powder
Minerals
1 Tbs = 12 Cal, 1g Protein, 0.1g Sugar, 1.8g Fiber (daily intake: 5% men, 7% women)
3-9% recommended daily intake of:
  • Iron - carries oxygen, helps produce red blood cells, essential for your immune system
  • Manganese - component of enzymes that form cartilage and bones, metabolize nutrients, function as antioxidants inside every cell in the body
  • Magnesium - helps produce energy and maintain a normal heart rhythm
  • Zinc - important for production and development of new cells, including cells of the immune system

Flavonoids
Plant-based substances
In cocoa, functions as antioxidants that help systemic inflammation
Cocoa is a good source of two flavonoids:
  • Epicatechin
  • Catechin
By helping to relax the muscles in blood vessels, these flavonoids can lower blood pressure and improve blood flow!

Wild Boar - Broken Arrow Ranch
  • An artisanal producer of high quality free-range venison, antelope, and wild boar meat
  • Family-owned and operated business
    • In its 2nd generation
    • Operating since 1983
    • Located in the heart of Texas Hill Country
  • Field harvest only truly wild animals
    • Not farm or pen-raised
  • Partner with ranchers in Central and South Texas
    • Part of their population management programs
    • Over 100 different ranches
    • About 1 million combined acres

-Harvesting


  • Mobile processing facility
    • The harvest crew consists of a shooter, a skinner, and a government meat inspector
    • It is set up at a prearranged location on the range to minimize time lapse between harvesting and processing
  • Humane field-harvesting
    • Harvested long-range (50-200 yards) using a sound-suppressed rifle and a high-power leupold scope
    • The main goal is to reduce stress, which is a large factor in controlling meat quality
    • A threatened animal will produce an increased amount of adrenaline which will lead to a rapid increase of lactic acid in the muscles
    • The acidic condition of the muscles can cause the meat to become tough, strongly flavored, and reduce its shelf life
    • The purpose of this technique is to cause zero stress to the animal for highest quality meat possible
    • Once harvested, the animal is brought back to the mobile processing facility where it's skinned, eviscerated (disemboweled), and inspected
  • Electro-stimulation
    • An additional step, which is performed within minutes of harvesting
    • It causes a contraction of muscles ensuring a thorough bleed out, which guarantees a mild tasting meat and longer shelf life
    • The event also tenderizes the meat, usually ends up 40%-60% more tender than non-stimulated meat

Ragù!
  • In Italian cuisine, ragù is a meat-based sauce commonly served with pasta
    • In Tuscany, ragù can be called ‘sugo’, and wild boar ragù is called ‘sugo di cinghaile’, which lines up with our ragù!
  • Created (or first documented) by Alberto Alvisi in the 18th century
    • Alberto was the cook to the Cardinal of Imola
    • The recipe was replicated and published as The Cardinal’s Ragù
  • One of the most popular ragùs is ‘Ragù alla Bolognese’ (Bolognia)
  • By the late 19th century, the use of heavy meat sauces on pasta was common on both feast days and Sunday's only with the wealthier classes of newly unified Italy due to meat and pasta expenses

Thursday, April 27, 2017

New Menu Items: Whole Wheat Pappardelle; Skirt Steak Panzanella

Whole Wheat Pappardelle (86 Fettuccine Nero)
Pappardelle is a long wide noodle, hand cut, made from whole wheat flour from Nitty Gritty Grains in VT, along with durum flour, eggs, and egg yolks. The pasta is tossed with a lamb neck sugo (lamb necks, braised in lamb stock, white wine, with sumac, cumin, caraway, and bay leaf), as well as grilled green garlic (poached in buttermilk, then grilled), and fava beans. The pasta is tossed with butter, lemon, pecorino, and a chili oil (chili flake, cinnamon, star anise, fennel, cumin, and sichuan peppercorns), and topped with thinly sliced green garlic tops.  The pasta is distinctly Italian, but nods at the peninsula's historical role in trading along the Silk Road with the importation of foreign ingredients.
Allergies: Gluten*, Dairy* (Note: please remember that the green garlic is poached in dairy and then grilled)

Skirt Steak Panzanella (86 Venison)
Panzanella is a classic tuscan bread salad, traditionally made with tomatoes. Our version adapts this into an entree, with grilled skirt steak, grilled gem lettuce, and a house made sourdough bread (whole wheat flour, pizza flour, water, sourdough starter, benne seeds, and flax seeds). All of these are grilled to order then tossed with a reduced beef stock, and a vinaigrette (Rosemary, capers, lemon zest, anchovies, shallots, garlic, colatura di alici, and red wine vinegar). Also in the salad are seasonal vegetables, and a puree on the bottom of the plate. The idea is for this dish to evolve throughout the summer, really playing to the strengths of the market around the corner. We’ll begin with a nettle puree, and a salad of basil, mint, radish, watercress, fennel, snap peas, and pickled ramps. (Steak is cooked Medium. We can cook it further, but it’s hard to do lower, since it’s a thin cut. Please don’t inquire about temperature though, unless you get the impression the guest might want it cooked through.)
Allergies: Gluten*, seafood*, sesame*, mushrooms* (in the beef stock)

Monday, April 24, 2017

Now on Tap: CI Jetty, KBS, Schilling Otto, & Brazo Fuerte K-Wags

CASTLE ISLAND Jetty
Style: Dry-hopped Sour Ale
ABV: 4.1%
Price, Size: 16 oz,  $7

A spring seasonal brew from Castle Island.  The beer is slightly tart, with a lemony start and a crackery finish.  Jetty is kettle soured with lactobacillus and gently dry hopped with Citra and coriander. Light and tangy, this crusher is a refreshing salute to boats, beaches, and backyards.

FOUNDERS KBS
Style: Bourbon barrel-aged stout
ABV: 11%
Price, Size: 12 oz, $11

This beer is a coveted annual release from Founder’s in Michigan.  They make a huge imperial stout brewed with a massive amount of coffee and chocolates.  They then barrel it in used bourbon barrels (check out that recycling!) and cave-age it for a full year before bottling.  It looks like motor oil and has very little carbonation, yet manages to be chewy instead of syrupy.  It smells like coffee, oak, and chocolate.  The bourbon flavor definitely comes through at the start of the palate, with a lot of complexity in the stout to back it up.  This is THE quintessential bourbon barrel-aged beer that completely lives up to it’s hype. Get it while you can.

SCHILLING OTTO
Style: Rauchbier
ABV: 5.6%
Price, Size: 16oz, $8

Otto Schilling was a famous German-born American mathematician.  Schilling makes progressive, continental-inspired beers, and apparently is run by nerds.  This beer is a nod to the famous, highly traditional smoked beers of Bamberg, Germany.  It’s a dark brown lager with moderate carbonation, aromas of “soft beechwood smoke” and an intensely caramelized malt.  The finish is clean despite the smoke.

BRAZO FUERTE K-WAGS COCONUT BROWN
Style:
ABV: 4.5%
Size, Price: 16oz, $7.25

The cat behind Brazo Fuerte is all about sustainability, sessionability, and the convivial aspects of beer drinking.  Her (!) beers are all session-styles and designed to be enjoyable with food and “post activities” (e.g. sports).  Brazo Fuerte takes its name from Bev Armstrong’s old rugby nickname, which literally translates as “strong arm.”  The brewery was selected as the winner of the 2017 Sam Adams Brewing the American Dream Business & Brewing Experienceship, which involves some help with funding, as well as a lot of mentorship ranging from brewing technique to ingredients sourcing to sales to package design. The K-Wags is a surprisingly easy to drink brown/porter made with toasted organic coconut to “round out the deliciousness.”  While dark in color due to a complex mix of chocolate malt the beer remains refreshing.  It takes its name from a former rugby teammate who plays for the US National Team.  Dope.

Friday, April 21, 2017

New Menu Items: Pate du Canard en Croute, Saucisson Lyonnaise

Pate de Canard en Croute
We are using whole ducks.  The legs are deboned and ground along with shallots, sage, cinnamon, star anise, cloves, and parsley. This is then mixed with sour cherries, almonds, diced duck breasts, and a panade of bread crumbs, egg, and cream. The pate is then wrapped in a pastry crust (eggs, flour, buttermilk, milk powder, leaf lard), and baked. After cooking we add a duck stock fortified with additional gelatin, this mix fills in the gaps that form during baking. The pate is sliced and garnished with salt and oil.
Allergies: dairy, nuts, gluten, allium

Saucisson Lyonnaise
This is our take on a traditional french summer sausage from the town of Lyon. Pork and Beef are ground along with white pepper, shallots, and fresh thyme. The ground meat is then mixed with toasted pistachios, mustard seeds, and whole black peppercorns. Cooked in the combi the sausage is sliced by hand and garnished with olive oil.
Allergies: nuts, allium

New Menu Items: Spaghetti Carbonara, Asparagus Pizza

Spaghetti
House made spaghetti (00, Durum, Semolina, water), is tossed with a sauce made from sliced asparagus, ramp greens, eggs (eggs, and additional yolks, cooked at 65 degrees for 45 minutes), butter, parmesan, and pecorino. The pasta is topped with bottarga (cured mullet roe), and a little bit of pecorino.
Allergies: egg*, dairy*, seafood*, gluten*  
Note:  If someone has both an egg and a dairy allergy, Chef would recommend a different option for them as a similar sauce can be made egg -free or dairy-free but not both.  That said, Chef will happily make a vegetarian pasta dish for someone if requested.

Asparagus Pizza
Topped with prosciutto crema base (prosciutto, milk, sour cream), fontina, sliced asparagus. After being cooked the pizza is topped with parmesan, lemon juice, salt and oil, then finished with a fried egg
Allergies: non-vegetarian*, dairy, egg*

New Cocktails: The Paramount; Shot Across the Bow

The Paramount
1 oz GTD Angelica
1 oz Green Chartreuse
1 oz Carpano Antica
1 dash Angostura

Stir.  Strain to coupe.  Flamed orange twist.

A Brief History of the Bijou:

In the cocktail renaissance of the last decade, many classics have been exhumed, polished, and updated for modern palates. Some have taken hold and are now as common on bar menus across the country as the gin-and-tonic. The Bijou is not one of them.

Which is a shame—the drink has a bright sweetness up front that soon gives way to a velvety mouthfeel and wonderfully complex bold herbal and bitter notes on the back end. The original 19th-Century recipe for the Bijou—which calls for equal parts gin, sweet vermouth, and green chartreuse (a sweet, herbal, and pungent liquor with a high alcohol content that has been produced for centuries by French monks), a dash of orange bitters, a twist of a lemon peel over the glass before discarding it, and a cherry—embodied a new direction for cocktails. "Beginning in the early 1880s, American bartenders, seeking to cater to a more sophisticated, cosmopolitan clientele, turned to vermouth and other European aperitifs, digestifs, and cordials to broaden the range of colors on their palettes," says David Wondrich, cocktail author, historian, and longtime Esquire contributor. "These proved to be the keystone that capped the structure of the classic mixologist's craft."

The Bijou had a decades-long run of popularity. But while its famous contemporaries, the Manhattan and the martini, continued to thrive post Prohibition, the Bijou—perhaps because it was never updated to reflect evolving tastes—faded into obscurity with only weathered cocktail-recipe books serving as proof it ever existed

What’s in a Name?: Broadway’s original Bijou Theater opened in 1880 on the site of what had been a bar run by Jerry Thomas, the creator of the Bijou cocktail!  The original Bijou used the layout of the bar within the design of the theater.  The Paramount Theater in Downtown Crossing is one of the oldest in the city, recently restored to it’s art deco prime when purchased by Emerson College.  Bijou Cocktail → Bijou Theater → Bijou Cocktail variation → The Paramount Cocktail.

Shots Across the Bow
1.5 oz Cynar
.5 oz Ancho Reyes
.5 oz lime

Dry shake all ingredients.  Strain to iced collins glass and top with lager.  Garnish with an orange swath.

What the Heck is That?:

We’re playing with beer and making it into a cocktail!  Most of these citrus/herbal/beer concoctions are lumped together under the category of shandies.  From Saveur magazine:

Beer is arguably America's national drink, and we tend to like ours just as it comes out of the bottle or the tap.  The English, however, whose beer-drinking history goes back considerably farther, have a long tradition of mixing beer with other drinks or other types of beer: consider the snakebite (beer and hard cider), the dog's nose (beer and gin), the half-and-half (half porter, half beer), or the black-and-tan (half stout, half lager). For my money, the finest of these British hybrids is the shandygaff, often called a shandy: equal parts beer, usually an ale, and ginger beer. The origins of the drink are murky. Some accounts attribute the invention to Henry VIII, who purportedly came up with the concoction as a tonic during his matrimonial difficulties; others trace it to the 18th-century novel Tristram Shandy. (The "gaff" in the name is thought by some to be a contraction of ginger and half-and-half.) In a 1918 compendium of essays collected, appropriately enough, under the title Shandygaff, the American novelist and poet Christopher Morley wrote, "[It's] a very refreshing drink…commonly drunk by the lower classes in England, and by…newspaper men, journalists, sailors, and prizefighters."


We’re getting that herbal, spicy backbone associated with gingerbeer from the combination of Cynar and Ancho Reyes.  The cocktail is spicy, sweet, dry, and refreshing.  Grab me a pitcher and a straw!  The name comes from an 1800’s naval reference: when sending a warning from one ship to another to cease and desist, a shot was fired across their bow instead of directly at the opposing ship.  This cocktail is a Shot Across the Bow because it tastes super light and refreshing, but there’s danger in those waters!