Thursday, May 17, 2018

2017 Famille Lafage "Miraflors" Rose

2017 Famille Lafage “Miraflors” $13

Who: Jean-Marc and Eliane Lafage
What: 30% Grenache Gris, 70% Mourvedre
Where: Côtes du Roussillon, France
Tastes Like: Aromas of light, wild strawberry and watermelon rind.  Mineral and herbaceous, balanced by a juicy fruit center.
Pairs With: Charcuterie, seafood, grilled chicken, pizza, salad... or by itself!

The Where:
Languedoc Roussillon is a wine producing region in the south of France, abutting the border with Spain.  The climate is warm and influenced by the Mediterranean, though some vineyards do see colder temperatures as you move further into the Pyrenees.  Blends are the way of the region, with Grenache, Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Mourvedre, Syrah, and Carignan being the predominant plantings.

The Who:
Jean-Marc Lafage works at his estate in the Roussillon, and across the border in Spain where he consults on several projects.  Jean-Marc and Eliane Lafage farm 160 hectares of vines located just south of the capital of French Catalonia, Perpignan. Some of their vineyards are situated a few kilometers from the Mediterranean while others can be found in the foothills of the Pyrenees. This range of sites allow them to make both refreshing whites as well as concentrated reds and, this being the Roussillon, some fortified wines as well. Benefiting from a warm, dry climate, the estate is farmed organically. They grow primarily Grenache (Blanc, Gris & Noir), Syrah, Mourvèdre, Carignan, Marsanne, Roussanne and Chardonnay with a significant proportion of the vines well over 50 years old. The soil, as you near the coast is weathered, alluvial gravel ( fine particles of silt and clay and larger particles of sand and gravel.) while in the higher elevation sites it is predominantly schist (plate-like rock formed when shale, clay, or siltstone is subjected to pressure deep within the earth. The soil retains heat well and warms up relatively quickly). They harvest by hand and the winemaking is surprisingly uncomplicated with stainless steel for the fresher whites but mostly concrete tanks for the rest with a small amount of French oak demi-muids.

The Wine:
Named after an old estate located in the heart of Domaine Lafage, Mas Miraflors, the Miraflors Rosé is sourced from old vines of Grenache Gris, nearing 80 years old, planted near the Mediterranean. Added to this is some Mourvedre that Jean-Marc planted here about 15 years ago. This a direct press rosé with the color coming from the skins of the pink Grenache Gris berries, and naturally, from the much darker Mourvedre. It is aged on the lees in stainless steel tanks for 4 months before bottling.

Monday, May 7, 2018

New Cocktails, full descriptions: 98 Degrees, Tangarang

Tangarang
1.5 Pisco
1 Orange Cordial
.5 Nonino
.5 Lemon
Shake.  Dbl strain to Coupe.  No garnish.

This cocktail belongs to Jill’s brain. She was inspired by a classic called a Pegu Club: gin, curacao, lime, angostura.  Simple, yet delicious.  The drink was invented as the house cocktail at the Pegu Club in Yangon, Myanmar (known then as Rangoon, Burma), an outpost established for British colonials in the 1920’s.  The place was hip, and so was the drink, eventually making its way to Harry’s New York Bar in Paris, itself one of the most influential bars in the history of cocktail culture.  Today, another influential bar started by Audrey Saunders takes its name from the cocktail as well.  If you find yourself in NYC, definitely go get a tipple at her Pegu Club. 

To transform the Pegu Club into the Tangarang, Jill decided to play with Pisco, a grape brandy native to Peru.  Also, instead of using curacao, she made an orange cordial from the juice, pith, and peel of oranges and a little bit of sugar.  The cordial gives the cocktail an intense orange citrus flavor but maintains the silkiness that you want in a cocktail (as opposed to just using orange juice, which tends to create an undesirable thickness).  The final result is light, citrusy, and refreshing, and reminded us of what we wanted Tang to taste like as kids.  Also known as Orange Danger.

98 Degrees
1 Gin                       
.5 Campari                
.5 Zucca                   
.25 St. Elder            
.5 Lemon                  
Quick shake to integrate.  Rox.  Top Cava.  Orange swath.

There’s not much of a backstory for this one.  I was looking for a cocktail in the Sprize tradition: something that will help you unwind and enjoy some gorgeous late-afternoon weather as you pretend to be at a sidewalk cafe in St. Mark’s Square in Venice.  Sigh… Anyway, the spritz is popular all over northern Italy, and the Aperol style is just the one that took off the fastest in the US.  Campari or any other bitter can certainly be spritzed, and in this cocktail we’re going after it the way they do in Milan by using multiple kinds.  The one thing I do know is that this cocktail is dry, refreshing, and exactly what I want when it’s 98 degrees outside.  Cin cin.