2013 Roche de Bellene Coteaux Bourguignons "Cuvee Terrior"

2013 Roche de Bellene Coteaux Bourguignons “Cuvée Terroir ” $11/$44

Where: Coteaux Bourguignons AOC, Burgundy, France

Who: Nicolas Potel, producer in Nuit-St. Georges is the negociant for this wine

What: 80% Gamay, 20% Pinot Noir

Tastes like: Fruit forward, “baby Burgundy”.

What to pair with: birds of all sorts, lighter charcuterie

The name “Bellene” comes from “Belenos,” an ancient Gallic god of sun and beauty. It is the origin of the city name, Beaune. In order to faithfully capture the “sun and beauty” of Burgundy’s terroirs and grape varieties, Masion Roche de Bellene practices very traditional, respectful winemaking.

The Pinot Noir portion of this wine is made in the classic way: a brief, cold maceration, followed by native-yeast fermentation in open vats. The Gamay is done in the traditional manner of the south, with a semicarbonic maceration and whole-cluster fermentation in order to preserve the naturally bright, pure fruitiness of the variety. The wines are matured in large, old oak barrels for four to five months. This allows them to develop a more full mid-palate texture without any new oak, which would destroy the delicate fruit character. After racking and a light filtration, the wines rest for a few weeks before the assemblage and bottling.

Roche de Bellene winemaker, Sylvain Debord, follows the Biodynamic calendar, and each phase of the winemaking process is done at the end of the lunar cycle, when there is no moon. He calls this gentle approach “the careful guidance of the human hand.” The inaugural 2013 vintage The exact cuvée will vary with each vintage, but in 2013 it is 20% Pinot Noir and 80% Gamay. The wine is delicate and fruity on the palate, with delightful raspberry, blackberry and Morello cherry notes. The firm tannin of the Pinot Noir gives the wine a fine structure that beautifully complements the rounder, softer fruitiness of the Gamay. Cuvée Terroir is meant to be drunk young, but can be kept for two to three years. Served at cellar temperature (55° F) it is an excellent choice for the dinner table — a lovely accompaniment to white meats, poultry and different types of fish.