Thursday, June 22, 2017

Stewarded Wine: Inama Soave Classico by Chrissy Geddes

INAMA SOAVE

    It’s patio season!  And that means it’s time for crushable wine that compliments our cuisine.  When most people think of Italian wines, they are likely going to Nebbiolo and Sangiovese for reds, and Pinot Grigio for whites.  Obviously, there are many more varietals in the country, including my most recently discovered wine, Soave, made from the lesser known grape, Garganega (known in Sicily as Grecanico).  Garganega is a thick skinned grape, that is usually harvested late.  Some of the most common flavor characteristics include lemon, melon, orange zest, almond, and spice.  Let’s talk about the region!
    The Soave wine region is located in the province of Verona, in the northeastern Italian region of Veneto.  Though the region is not particularly large, it is one of the most densely planted areas under vine.  There are DOC and DOCG designations within the region.  Most Soave is still and dry, but more recently, a passito style has been granted its own designation as well.  All Soave wine is made up primarily of Garganega, but certain percentages of Chardonnay and Trebbiano may be blended in.  There are five types of Soave that are produced: Soave, Soave Spumante, Soave Colli Scaligeri, Soave Classico, and Recioto di Soave.  (The designation of “Superiore” can be added if the wine has been aged for at least 8 months and has been made from higher quality grapes).  Our wine is of the Classico kind.  Let’s discuss!
    The Italian government originally lineated the Classico zone in 1927.  It encompassed 2,720 acres.  The DOC was created in 1968, and was expanded over the years.  Nowadays, “Classico” Soave refers specifically to wine that is grown in the hills surrounding the original zone (surrounding the cities of Soave and Monteforte d’Alpone).  Because of this, it is commonly believed that the best Soave wines come from the Classico zone.
    Our wine is coming from Inama, a winery founded in the 1990s.  It all started with Guiseppe Inama in the 1950s.   After World War II, Soave had seen a lot of success in places like the US due to its affordability and “crushability”.  At one point, it was even more popular than Chianti.  Eventually, however, Pinot Grigio reigned supreme and became the most popular and widely known Italian white.  Guiseppe hoped to change this by gathering only the highest quality Garganega, and ultimately creating a wine that had the ability to restore prestige to the area.  He began by purchasing small plots of vineyards with hopes of shining the light back on the Soave region. For years, he oversaw the vineyards, produced wine, and then sold it to Wine Cooperatives.  Eventually, he was able to start his own family run winery.
    Today, the winery is composed of over 70 acres.  This third generation winery operates organically.  They believe that this results in better fruit.  They focus on traditional and minimalistic winemaking, and believe firmly in showcasing terroir.
    The 2014 Inama Vin Soave Classico is made from 100% Garganega.  The grapes are grown in volcanic soil containing high amounts of calcium, iron, and magnesium.  The wine is fermented in stainless steel vats, and then sees malolactic fermentation.  (This is when malic acid, a very tart flavor, is converted to lactic acid, which is much milder.)  It is aged for 8 months in stainless steel before being bottled.
    The color is light, almost a white gold.  On the nose, the wine is very floral, with hints of stone fruit.  The mouthfeel is round, but the body is not too heavy.  The palate shows a lot of minerality, a touch of citrus zest, and some of the classic bitter almond flavor.  Not too high in acid, but smooth and easy to drink.  I would love to drink this with the new rigatoni!


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