Sunday, December 3, 2017

New Cocktails: I'll Have What She's Having; Palomino Must Have

I’ll Have What She’s Having
1.5 GTD Craneberry Liquer
.5    Barr Hill Gin
.5    Kina L’Aero
.5    Lime
Shake.  Dbl strain to coupe.  Lime wheel

This one is a riff on a Cosmo.  Despite being popularlized by everyone’s favorite NYC quartet in the early 2000’s (thereby earning the reputation of “girly drink”), the Cosmopolitan dates back to at least 1934, though with some distinct differences from the accepted recipe of today.  Originally a gin cocktail with triple sec, lemon, and raspberry syrup, the drink eventually evolved (likely in the early 1980’s) into the citrus vodka, lime, triple, and cranberry concoction that we know today.  Even in this format, a well-made cosmo is much dryer than it’s pale pink color implies.   

For our cocktail we’re splitting the old and the new.  Our primary base is a cranberry cordial made by Grand Ten Distilling down in Southie.  Craneberry is not a typo, but what our founding fathers referred to the little red berries that floated about in bogs.  We add a little bit of the Barr Hill for depth and a nod to the old school, lime juice for acid, and lastly the Kina L’Aero.  This is essentially the original recipe of Lillet: floral, bitter orange, and dry to the finish, it keeps the cocktail from going into the Candy Coated Nightmare Zone while reinforcing the citrus elements of the original.

So what’s in a name?  The Cosmo was made famous by Samantha on Sex and the City.  In the 90’s and early 2000’s SATC marked a radical change in the way TV dealt with modern, independent women, particularly singletons in major cities.  The show was such a phenomenon that it actually validated many women’s quest to have it all: independence, a career, and love.  At the turn of the previous decade, another movie set in NYC also made major waves for changing the standard guy-meets-gal narrative of the romantic comedy.  In “When Harry Met Sally,” the most famous scene occurs at Katz’s Deli, when Meg Ryan’s character complains that relationships are couched in incredibly male-centric terms by society.  She proves her point by pretending to enjoy her lunch to such a degree (and very much out loud) that another older woman in the deli looks at her server and says “I’ll have what she’s having.”  Essentially, push against the box you’re put in, no matter the time frame.  And if you want a “girly drink,” know that it can be pretty, pink, delicious, and strong as hell at the same time.

Palomino Must Have
2 oz Fino sherry
4 oz Seasonal Soda

Build in collins glass or pitcher.  Quick stir to integrate.

Seasonal Soda: Grapefruit Thyme
2 qts Grapefruit Juice
The peels of 3 grapefruits
3 cups sugar
5 g thyme

Combine all ingredients in a saucepan.  Slowly bring to a boil over medium heat.  Let steep for 1 hour.  Fine strain solids.  Will last a month in the fridge.    

Fino sherry is a dry, oxidized, fortified wine made in the area around Jerez, on the south west coast of Spain.  The primary grape used for sherry production is Palomino, but Moscatel and Pedro Ximenez are also allowed.  The wine is vinified, fortified with grape brandy, and then allowed to age in contact with flor (all of the yeast cells that form a protective cap) within a solera system for a minimum of two years.  The time in barrel increases the complexity, but the protective quality of the flor creates a wine that is still young, fresh, and grassy.  

This cocktail is designed to be a delicious layup for the bar team.  Fino sherry with a splash of soda is a thing in Spain, so we’re taking that local cavalier-with-our-fine-wine attitude and putting it on the menu.  In the long run, I’d love to use seasonal fruits and herbs to make a rotating house soda to keep on hand.  This can be sold separately (no free refills--this stuff takes time) or used as an ingredient in a mocktail.  We’re starting with grapefruit-thyme.  Winter, strangely, is a peak citrus season, and thyme is a hearty green herb that will play up the grassy notes of the fino sherry.  The end result will be a refreshing, fizzy lifting drink that takes no time at all to get to your guests.


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